We shall now direct our analysis to Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four principal islands. Located south of the Chugoku region, Shikoku is an area defined by profound spirituality, dramatic natural landscapes, and deeply entrenched traditions. The island’s name, meaning “four countries,” refers to its four prefectures: Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi. While it is less traveled than Japan’s main tourist corridors, Shikoku offers an authentic experience, renowned for its challenging but rewarding 88-temple pilgrimage route. It is, in essence, Japan’s 巡礼の島 (じゅんれいのしま, junrei no shima)—the island of pilgrimage.
This guide will provide a systematic examination of Shikoku’s spiritual history, its culture of hospitality and vibrant festivals, its most compelling sights, and its distinctive regional cuisine. The content is supplemented with relevant Japanese vocabulary to facilitate a deeper understanding. We will now commence our study of this serene and sacred island.
A Glimpse into Shikoku’s History
Shikoku’s history is inextricably linked with one of Japan’s most significant religious figures, the monk Kukai, posthumously known as Kobo Daishi. Born on the island in 774, Kukai founded the Shingon school of Buddhism and established its headquarters on Mount Koya. The 四国八十八箇所 (しこくはちじゅうはっかしょ, Shikoku Hachijūhakkasho), the 1,200-kilometer pilgrimage route of 88 temples, traces the path of his ascetic training and travels across the island, making him its central historical and spiritual figure. While its relative geographic isolation helped preserve many of its unique traditions, Shikoku was not entirely removed from the nation’s political currents. The Tosa Domain (modern-day Kochi) and its low-ranking samurai, most notably Sakamoto Ryoma, became pivotal figures who helped to orchestrate the overthrow of the Tokugawa Shogunate and usher in the Meiji Restoration in the 19th century.
Shikoku’s Culture
The culture of Shikoku is profoundly shaped by its pilgrimage tradition. The sight of pilgrims, known as お遍路さん (おへんろさん, o-henro-san), dressed in their traditional white robes and conical sedge hats, is a common and respected feature of the island’s landscape. This tradition has fostered a deeply ingrained culture of hospitality called お接待 (おせったい, o-settai), wherein local residents offer pilgrims gifts of food, drink, or rest, viewing it as a way to earn virtue by proxy. This creates a unique atmosphere of generosity and communal support for those undertaking the arduous journey.
Beyond its spiritual side, Shikoku is also a region of vibrant celebration. The Awa Odori in Tokushima is Japan’s largest dance festival, drawing over a million attendees each August for its energetic street parades. Similarly, the Yosakoi Festival in Kochi is a high-energy, modern dance event that attracts teams from across the country. These lively events provide a dynamic contrast to the island’s otherwise tranquil and nature-focused character.
Must-See Sights in Shikoku
Shikoku offers a blend of sacred sites, world-class art, and breathtaking natural scenery:
- Naoshima, Teshima, and the Art Islands: This collection of islands in the Seto Inland Sea has been transformed into a world-renowned destination for contemporary art, featuring museums and installations by leading architects and artists.
- Dogo Onsen Honkan (道後温泉本館): Located in Matsuyama, this is one of Japan’s most historic and venerated hot spring bathhouses, with a labyrinthine wooden structure that has captivated visitors for centuries.
- Iya Valley (祖谷渓): A remote, mountainous region in Tokushima known for its dramatic gorges and traditional vine bridges (かずら橋, kazurabashi) that span the Iya River.
- Ritsurin Garden (栗林公園): An exceptional landscape garden in Takamatsu that is widely considered one of the finest in Japan. It features numerous ponds, pavilions, and meticulously sculpted pine trees against the backdrop of Mount Shiun.
- Key Pilgrimage Temples: While completing the entire circuit is a major endeavor, visiting significant temples such as Ryozenji (Temple 1), Ishiteji (Temple 51), and Zentsuji (Temple 75, Kukai’s birthplace) offers insight into the pilgrimage’s importance.
Unique Experiences & Things to Do
To truly engage with the spirit of the island, consider these unique activities:
- Walk a Portion of the Pilgrimage Trail: Undertaking even a short segment of the 88-temple route offers a profound connection to the landscape and centuries of spiritual tradition.
- Join the Awa Odori in Tokushima: During the Obon festival in August, visitors are encouraged to join the street dancing with the simple chant, “It’s a fool who dances and a fool who watches, so why not dance?”
- Go Rafting on the Yoshino River: The Koboke and Oboke gorges offer some of Japan’s most thrilling whitewater rafting, providing an adventurous way to experience the island’s natural beauty.
- Climb Mount Ishizuchi: Ascend western Japan’s highest peak. The final sections of the climb are famous for the long iron chains (鎖, kusari) bolted into the cliffs, offering a challenging alternative to the hiking path.
Shikoku’s Food Scene
The island’s cuisine is characterized by its excellent noodles, fresh seafood, and abundant citrus:
- Sanuki Udon (讃岐うどん): The definitive dish of Kagawa Prefecture. These wheat noodles are renowned throughout Japan for their distinctive square shape and firm, chewy texture. They are typically served in a simple, high-quality dashi broth.
- Katsuo no Tataki (鰹のたたき): The signature dish of Kochi. Thick slices of bonito tuna are seared briefly over a hot straw fire, leaving the center raw. It is then sliced and served with citrus-based ponzu sauce and various aromatics.
- Mikan (みかん): Ehime Prefecture is Japan’s foremost producer of mandarin oranges and other citrus fruits. The juice, desserts, and fresh fruit are local staples.
- Tai-meshi (鯛めし): A sea bream and rice dish that is a specialty of Ehime. It is prepared in two distinct regional styles: one where the fish is cooked whole in the rice pot, and another where sashimi is served over rice with a raw egg-based sauce.
— Useful Phrase in Shikoku —
お気をつけて。
おきをつけて。
O-ki o tsukete.
Please take care. / Be careful.
This is a common and respectful phrase to offer to an O-henro-san (pilgrim) that you may encounter on the road, wishing them a safe journey.
— Language Corner Shikoku —
巡礼 (じゅんれい, junrei) – Pilgrimage
お遍路さん (おへんろさん, o-henro-san) – A pilgrim on the Shikoku route
お接待 (おせったい, o-settai) – Hospitality given to pilgrims
霊場 (れいじょう, reijō) – Sacred place
Japanese for Your Shikoku Adventures
— On the Pilgrimage Trail (巡礼にて) —
札所 (ふだしょ, fudasho) – Numbered temple on a pilgrimage
納経帳 (のうきょうちょう, nōkyōchō) – Pilgrim’s stamp book
同行二人 (どうぎょうににん, dōgyō ninin) – “Two traveling together,” the belief that Kobo Daishi accompanies the pilgrim
Useful phrase
次の札所までどのくらいですか。
つぎのふだしょまでどのくらいですか。
Tsugi no fudasho made dono kurai desu ka?
How far is it to the next numbered temple?
— Eating Sanuki Udon (讃岐うどん屋にて) —
かけうどん (kake udon) – Hot udon in broth
ぶっかけうどん (bukkake udon) – Udon with a small amount of concentrated broth
セルフサービス (serufu sābisu) – Self-service (common in udon shops)
Useful phrase
この天ぷらを取ってもいいですか。
このてんぷらをとってもいいですか。
Kono tenpura o totte mo ii desu ka?
May I take this tempura?
— At a Festival (祭りにて) —
踊り (おどり, odori) – Dance
連 (れん, ren) – A dance troupe (at Awa Odori)
屋台 (やたい, yatai) – Food stall
Useful phrase
祭りは何時に始まりますか。
まつりはなんじにはじまりますか。
Matsuri wa nanji ni hajimarimasu ka?
What time does the festival begin?
Read More:
